Things to do in Cologne

Landmark · Altstadt

A Gothic cathedral begun in 1248 and finished in 1880, which survived the war largely intact while the city around it did not.

Local tip: Free to enter. Climb the 533 steps of the south tower for the view — it is a genuine effort and the staircase is narrow. Go early; it is Germany's most visited landmark.

Nature · Riverside

The riverbank walk from the old town south to the converted harbour, with the three Kranhaus buildings shaped like cranes.

Local tip: The east bank has the better view — of the cathedral and the old town — and is where locals go to sit with a beer in summer. Cross the Hohenzollern bridge on foot.

Neighborhood · West of the ring

The Belgian Quarter — independent shops, bars and restaurants on streets named after Belgian cities.

Local tip: The best eating and drinking in Cologne, and where you will end up most evenings. Brüsseler Platz on a summer evening fills with people sitting on the church steps, which the neighbours periodically object to.

Culture · Beside the cathedral

One of Europe's most important collections of modern art, with the largest Pop Art holding outside the United States and a major Picasso collection.

Local tip: Directly beside the cathedral and consistently overshadowed by it. The Picasso rooms and the Russian avant-garde collection are world class, and it is rarely crowded.

Food · Altstadt and beyond

Früh, Päffgen, Sion and others — traditional halls where Kölsch arrives in 200ml glasses until you stop it.

Local tip: Päffgen on Friesenstraße is the one locals defend most fiercely. Put your beer mat on top of the glass when you have had enough, or the Köbes will keep going. The gruffness is performance and you are meant to give it back.

Nature · West of the city

A lake in the outer green belt — a ring of parkland laid out in the 1920s on the former fortifications encircling the city.

Local tip: Cologne has two concentric green belts most visitors never see, built on demolished Prussian fortifications. The outer ring is where the city actually runs, cycles and barbecues, and Decksteiner Weiher is its best stretch.