Things to do in Seoul

Landmark · Jongno

The grandest royal palace, with the changing-of-the-guard, beside lanes of traditional hanok houses.

Local tip: Rent a hanbok nearby to enter the palace free; visit Bukchon early and quietly — people still live there.

Nature · Jung-gu

A forested mountain in the city's heart, with trails and a tower view over the whole megacity.

Local tip: Hike up from Myeongdong rather than taking the cable car; the night view from the top is the real reward.

Nature · Riverside

Vast riverside parks for cycling, picnics and the famous order-in fried chicken and ramyeon by the water.

Local tip: Grab convenience-store ramyeon (cook it at the riverside machines) and chimaek (chicken + beer) at sunset in summer.

Food · Jongno

A buzzing covered market of street-food legends — bindaetteok (mung-bean pancake), mayak gimbap and live octopus.

Local tip: Go hungry and mid-afternoon; sit at a stall the locals are queuing for and point at what looks good.

Nightlife · Mapo-gu

The youthful university district of indie music, buskers, clubs, cafés and all-night energy.

Local tip: Weeknights are friendlier than the weekend crush; wander the backstreets for the best small bars and live shows.

Culture · Jongno

A maze of restored hanok alleys turned into hidden cafés, boutiques and restaurants — old Seoul made cool.

Local tip: Come on a weekday afternoon to actually get a table; it's tiny, photogenic and packed at weekends.