Things to do in Tbilisi

Landmark · Old Town

The atmospheric historic core — carved balconies, the brick-domed sulfur bathhouses, and the leaning Narikala fortress above on the cable car.

Local tip: Book a private room at Chreli Abano (the tiled 'Orbeliani' bath) for an hour; go on a weekday morning to avoid the tour crowds. The cable car from Rike Park is GEL 2.50 with a Metromoney card.

Nightlife · Chugureti (left bank)

A Soviet sewing factory reborn as a hostel, coworking hub, courtyard bar and creative-class magnet — the social heart of nomad Tbilisi.

Local tip: The courtyard is free to hang in; great for laptop work by day and meeting other nomads by night. The surrounding streets hide some of the city's best new-wave cafés and wine bars.

Food · Station Square

Tbilisi's wild, sprawling farmers' market — mountains of spices, churchkhela, cheeses, pickles and the cheapest produce in the city.

Local tip: Go hungry and with cash and small change. Buy churchkhela (walnut-and-grape-must 'Georgian Snickers') and a wheel of sulguni cheese; haggling is expected.

Nature · Mtatsminda

A hilltop amusement park with the best panorama of the city, reached by a historic funicular railway up the mountain.

Local tip: Ride the funicular up at sunset, eat at the mid-station restaurant, and walk the ridge. The Metromoney card works on the funicular.

Culture · Mtatsminda / Centre

The grand central boulevard — opera house, National Gallery, Parliament, theatres and the Dry Bridge flea market just below.

Local tip: Saturday/Sunday at the Dry Bridge Market for Soviet memorabilia, silver and antiques. The National Gallery's Pirosmani room is a must.

Nature · 2 hrs east

Georgia's wine heartland — Sighnaghi's walled hilltop town, family qvevri cellars and the Alazani valley under the Caucasus.

Local tip: Hire a driver for the day (GEL 150-250 split among friends) rather than a bus tour; ask to visit a small family marani (cellar) for the real qvevri experience.