Essential Spanish phrases

'What's up?' — the standard rolo greeting. Reply 'Bien, ¿y usted?' Bogotanos use 'usted' with almost everybody, including close friends, far more than other Colombians do.

A contraction of 'su merced' — an affectionate, old-fashioned 'you' inherited from the Boyacá highlands. Shopkeepers and older bogotanos use it constantly and it is warm, not servile.

'Don't give papaya' — don't hand anyone an easy opportunity. Phone out of sight on the street, bag on your lap in a café. The single most repeated piece of Colombian advice.

How every Bogotá address works. Calles run east–west and their numbers climb northwards; Carreras run north–south and climb westwards away from the mountains. Once you grasp it you can find any address in the city without a map.

Literally 'will you gift me…?' — the standard polite way to order or ask for something. '¿Me regala un tinto?' is not a request for a free coffee.

TransMilenio, the red articulated-bus BRT. Everyone calls it this, usually while complaining about it. Tap in with a tullave card.

Altitude sickness. At 2,640 m it is a real thing — headache, breathlessness, a hangover from one glass of wine. Locals prescribe aguapanela and going easy for three days.

Help! Dial 123 for any emergency nationwide; 195 is Bogotá's 24-hour city information and services line.

A small black coffee (not wine), and hot cane-sugar water — the Bogotá cure for cold, altitude and everything else. Often served with cheese dropped in.

The late-afternoon snack — coffee or hot chocolate with bread, around 4–5pm. A genuine social institution in Bogotá, and an invitation to 'tomar onces' is an invitation to sit down properly.

To work / the job — very bogotano. 'Estoy camellando' means 'I'm working'. Nothing to do with camels.