What to know before you go
Hold hard currency, spend lira
CriticalTurkish lira inflation is high, so prices change fast and furnished flats are often quoted in USD/EUR. Keep savings in dollars/euros and convert as you spend; exchange offices (döviz) give better rates than airports. Many places take cards, but carry some cash for small vendors and tea.
Sort your residence permit (ikamet) — and watch closed districts
CriticalAnything over 90 days needs a residence permit applied for via the e-İkamet system. Critically, many Istanbul districts are CLOSED to new foreigner registration (they hit the foreign-population cap), so your address must be in an open district or the application fails. Get the ikamet right and your foreigner ID + tax number follow.
Get an İstanbulkart and ride two continents
ImportantOne rechargeable İstanbulkart covers the metro, trams, buses, the Marmaray under-Bosphorus rail and the iconic ferries. The ferry between the European and Asian sides is the city's best-value joy — commute by boat with tea in hand. Buy and top up the card at kiosks and station machines.
Respect the earthquake reality when choosing a flat
ImportantIstanbul sits near a major fault and a significant quake is expected. Favour newer or retrofitted buildings (post-2000, built to updated codes), ask about the building's deprem (earthquake) compliance, and know your exits. It's the single most important safety question when renting.
Plan around traffic and the two sides
ImportantIstanbul traffic is among the world's worst, and crossing between the European and Asian sides at rush hour is painful. Live near where you work or study, lean on the Marmaray and metro for cross-Bosphorus trips, and embrace the ferries — often faster and far nicer than a car or bridge.
Tea, hospitality and bargaining
Good to knowHospitality is serious here — you'll be offered çay everywhere, and refusing isn't rude but accepting builds rapport. In the Grand Bazaar and markets, haggling is expected and friendly; in shops and supermarkets, prices are fixed. A little Turkish goes a long way.