Things to do in Kisangani

Nature · Eastern edge of the city

Seven cataracts on the Lualaba, and on the rocks the timber scaffolds of the Wagenia fishermen — wedged into the current, holding conical basket traps that are hauled up by hand. It is one of the genuinely singular sights in central Africa and it is a working fishery, not a display.

Local tip: Go with a guide arranged locally and agree what you are paying before you set out; access runs through the fishing community and that is as it should be. Morning light is better and the water is at its most dramatic in the wetter months.

Culture · About 100 km downstream on the Congo

A colonial-era agronomic research station turned UNESCO biosphere reserve, holding one of the largest herbaria in Africa and decades of tropical-forest data, now at the centre of international forest-carbon and biodiversity research.

Local tip: Getting there is by river and it is a day's commitment each way — arrange it through UNIKIS or one of the research programmes rather than turning up. For anyone with a scientific interest it is the reason to be posted here.

Neighborhood · Right bank, central

The administrative and residential heart — the provincial offices, the university's town presence, the better housing stock, and the long avenues laid out when this was Stanleyville. It is where almost every foreign resident ends up living.

Local tip: Walk it in the early morning before the heat and the humidity settle. It is also the only part of the city where you can realistically do bank, immigration and provincial-government business on foot in a day.

Landmark · Riverfront

Where two thousand kilometres of river logistics arrives and departs: barges lashed into floating villages, cargo of every description, and the traders who live aboard for the weeks a journey to Kinshasa takes.

Local tip: Go and look, ask before photographing anything or anyone, and treat it as the place to understand this city rather than a place to visit. If prices in the market moved this week, the reason is tied up at the beach.

Food · Central Kisangani

Fish from the river, cassava, plantain, forest produce and the imported goods that came up by barge at a price that reflects the journey. The clearest single illustration of what isolation costs a household.

Local tip: Buy fish early and buy it whole. And use the market to calibrate: if a familiar imported item costs three times what it does in Kinshasa, that is the freight, not a foreigner's price.

Nightlife · Along the Congo, Makiso and beyond

Grilled capitaine, cold Primus, plastic chairs facing the water and rumba at volume. The evening here is slower and more river-facing than Kinshasa's, and considerably better for it.

Local tip: Sunset over the Congo from a nganda terrace is the single best hour in Kisangani. Go with someone local, carry small clean notes, and arrange your ride home before you settle in.